Fireman's coat
Japan
19th century

This coat was worn by a Japanese fireman during the late Edo or early Meiji period (mid-19th century). In pre-modern Japan, buildings were typically constructed of wood, and frequent outbreaks of fire led to a well-developed fire fighting system. As their profession was quite hazardous, firefighters were admired for their bravery and revered as symbols of masculine ideals.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, firefighters came from four distinct social classes -- samurai, feudal lords, retainers and townspeople -- but only the latter wore this type of quilted cotton garment. The others wore coats of more expensive materials such as leather and wool. This heavy jacket -- made of several layers of cotton quilted with running stitches -- helped to shield the wearer from impacts and hot flames. When in use, it would have been drenched with water to further protect and cool the firefighter. The bold geometric designs were created by using a stencil to apply a paste resist to the fabric before immersion in the indigo dye vat, a technique called katazome.

Warp: cotton. Weft: cotton. Resist and stencil-dyed and quilted
The Textile Museum 83.65.1, The Ruth Lincoln Fisher Memorial Fund

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