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Fibers The plain weave ground fabric of Ottoman embroidered textiles was commonly made of flax or cotton. More luxurious embroideries were done on silk satin weaves or silk or cotton velvets. Once a ground fabric had been woven it was ready to be embroidered with silk and metallic threads.  Throughout the 18th century and into the 19th century the use of metallic threads became so fashionable that certain textiles were embroidered almost exclusively with them. This increase was due in part to the rising wealth of the middle class and to the influence of the European Rococo style. Metal wire spirals called tirtil, sequins and pearls were added as secondary elements to highlight the designs.
Tools 
The basic tools used by embroiderers were a gergef and needles. Gergef was a rectangular embroidery frame standing on four short legs resembling a small table. Some were beautifully carved; others were decorated with inlaid mother of pearl. Another frame sometimes used for embroidery was a round hoop called kasnak.
Designs Embroidery from the 17th to the 18th century shows preferences for clear forms; distinct compositions with precisely rendered motifs, and a small number of bold colors. During the 19th century designs begin to show a preference for more intricate and naturalistic floral imagery. Ottoman decorative arts became more lavish as European influences filtered in through trade resulting in more elaborate and detailed embroidery.
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© 2001, The Textile Museum, 2320 S Street, NW; Washington, DC 20008 |
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