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Embroidery was practiced by a large part of the population in the
Ottoman Empire. Embroidered textiles were used both within daily life
and during celebrations, giving them great significance. To better
understand the various functions of embroidered textiles, it is
important to look at both the social environment and the occasions for
which the textiles were produced and used.
Makers
Domestic embroidery, made for sale or personal use, accounted for a
large percentage of all textile production in the Ottoman Empire.
Both men and women embroidered.
Men worked in workshops, mainly with expensive materials such as
pearls, gold, or semi-precious stones. It is thought that they
embroidered large objects made of heavy materials, since a great
amount of strength was required to work the needle.
Women worked in the haremliks (women's quarters) of their
homes. Confined by social customs to their homes, embroidery was a
way for women to pass time. It was a major part of the upbringing of
a young girl, many of who would become as skilled as their
professional counterparts, and would be able to earn money as well as
to furnish their own homes. Professional women embroiderers were
often engaged in cottage industry work.
Designs
Ottoman embroidery designs reflect the political and social times
under which they were produced.
17th to 18th century
Embroidery from the 17th to the 18th century shows preferences for
clear forms, distinct compositions with a defined direction, precisely
rendered motifs, and a small number of bold colors. These compositions
had three important characteristics:
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Every composition was framed with a border without regard to the
shape of the ground fabric, thus creating two parts to the
composition, a central field and a border.
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The border could be narrow or wide; wider ones were decorated with
floral scrolls that were usually a simplified version of the motifs
used in the main field.
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The overall design in the central field was an infinitely repeating
pattern, which created the illusion that design continued beyond the
framing borders.
Ottomans loved flowers, so floral forms and designs are common in
Ottoman decorative arts. Tulips, carnations, hyacinths, pomegranates,
arched flower branches and leaves of the Oriental plane tree were most
often used for design inspiration from the 16th to the early 18th
century. During this time the floral motifs and compositions often
appear stylized. Although certain flowers were depicted naturally
enough to be identifiable, the ways they were put together are
unnatural. Flower filled medallions, large serrated leaves, huge blossoms, çintemanis (three balls and two wavy lines), crowns and
cloud bands are other motifs frequently seen on embroidered textiles
from this period.
Red, blue, green, yellow, white, and black were the six colors used most frequently in Ottoman embroidery from the 17th to the mid-18th century. Among these colors, black was used for the outlining of white motifs or for minor highlighting. Each motif was represented with a single bold basic color and there was no highlighting or shading.
18th to 20th century
Interest in European art and technology spread rapidly in the second
half of the 18th century and continued through the 19th
century. Changes in the culture and the lifestyle of the Ottomans are
clearly reflected in their embroidered textiles. As Ottoman artists
combined designs and motifs from the European style called Rococo with
the classical Ottoman style they created a new style later termed
Ottoman, or Turkish Rococo.
After the mid-18th century, compositions on embroidered textiles began
to change as well. Individual motifs became smaller. Rather than
being decorated with overall patterns, textiles were embroidered
around the edges or at two ends.
While flowers remained the most prominent motif in all Ottoman art
forms, their form gradually changed. Under the influence of the
European Rococo style, floral sprigs eventually became lavish floral
sprays or flower bouquets in the 19th century. Large motifs of flower
and leaf garlands were enhanced with metallic threads and became more
exuberant. While the repertory of floral motifs continued to expand,
representations of these motifs also changed, becoming more and more
naturalistic in appearance. A vase with a large spray of flowers
started to appear in both pictorial and textile arts around this
time. This period also marked the introduction of landscape designs
depicting scenery and architectural features generally related to
gardens. Yalis (seashore houses), mosques, mescids (small prayer
halls), türbes (tombs), pleasure tents, and ships are all new
additions to a growing motif repertory.
Beginning in the mid-18th century, the color palette also
expanded. Strong colors waned in popularity while pastel tones such as
pinks, light blues, light greens and soft browns became the
fashion. Not only did embroiderers begin using more colors, they also
began using variations of the same color to represent shading or to
create depth. Some embroidery was done with 10 to 15
colors. Embroiderers also began using shades of the color used on
motifs to create outlines rather than doing this in black colored
thread.
Materials
Flax, cotton, and silk were the three major fibers used in Ottoman
embroidery. Flax and cotton were spun at home, while silk was
generally purchased in bazaars. Beginning in the 18th century
embroiderers started to use more expensive and more metallic threads to create
luxurious textiles. This is probably because the growing middle
class, as eager consumers were now able to purchase goods once only
affordable to the Palace.
Functions
Embroidered textiles were an integral part of Ottoman daily life, used
for home furnishings and clothing. Textiles played a role in daily
activities and were used as gift-wrappings, room decorations,
daily linens, and clothing. Embroidered textiles were also used
for more ceremonial purposes, such as weddings, births, and
circumcisions. Handmade textiles were symbols of status and
illustrated not only the wealth of a woman's family but also her skill
as an embroiderer. Learn more about the various functions of
embroidered textiles during the Ottoman Empire.
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