Textile of the Month

Buzi (pair of rank badges)
China
late 19th century


Rank badges such as these have been worn in China since ancient times by government officials from the emperor down to local officers. The format of the rank badges was standardized by the Manchu court in the Ch'ing dynasty (1644-1911) as a means of imposing their rule on the local Han Chinese population. Men earned a place in the government bureaucracy by passing a series of rigorous examinations, if they could not afford to purchase a passing grade. Birds were used to indicate the various civil ranks, and predatory animals the military ranks. The paradise flycatcher bird on this pair of badges signifies the 9th, or lowest, rank in the civil service. Occupants of this rank served as judges, tax collectors and police chiefs at the local level.

Rank badges were made in pairs to be attached on the front and back of an official overcoat that opened in the center front. One badge is made in two parts, split down the center, to be sewn to the two sides of the front of the coat.

silk and metallic-wrapped thread; satin weave, embroidered
28.5 cm x 30 cm (each square)
The Textile Museum 1973.28.4
Given in memory of their parents, Charles G. and Marian B. Woodbury, by Richard B. Woodbury, Mrs. Meylon H. Hepp and Charles B. Woodbury


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