Textile of the Month

Late 19th to early 20th century

Worn by the Han women in China for formal or official occasions, including weddings, this detachable collar would have been attached to a jacket. When worn, the four points of the collar face the chest, back and shoulders with the head at the center. This type of collar is referred to as a cloud collar because of the exterior shape of the piece.

The collar is made from three different layers that create a step effect. The top layer is comprised of a green ground cloth with lilies and other flowers embroidered on it. The next layer has a yellow background trimmed with black and green fabric with embroidered flowers and vases, while the third layer has a red ground with flowers, a deer, dragons, and vases embroidered on it. The embroidery on the piece includes a knot stitch often referred to as a Peking knot. This stitch used to embroider the lilies on the center panel and the dragons on the bottom corner of the outer piece is a non-functional stitch that presents a visual texture on the piece.

silk and metallic-wrapped thread; satin weave, embroidery-satin stitch, knotted buttonhole loop, couching
56.80 cm x 57.70 cm
The Textile Museum 1985.33.233
Gift of The Florence Eddowes Morris Collection, Goucher College

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