The colors and patterns found on this cotton sarong are typical of Pekalongan, located on the north coast of Java. Made to be worn wrapped around the lower body, this sarong is patterned with the motif known as jelamprang. The geometric jelamprang design, which imitates a prestigious Indian patola pattern, consists of a small medallion containing eight dots surrounding a central dot, the whole being repeated over the cloth. The cloth was patterned by a wax resist procedure generally called batik. Various applications of wax, alternating with different dye baths characterize this process. In this particular cloth, the wax was applied in small rectangular dots, creating visual effects resembling a woven cloth. This style of patterning, known as nitik, produced some of Java's most valued cloths. Because of its geometric patterning this cloth was popular in the Indo-Arab community, and was often worn at weddings. The layout is typically Indonesian, with a central field, borders and kepala, a wide border with a different pattern than the field.

The Textile Museum 1985.12.4
Gift of Sanford and Mary Jane Bloom
192 x 106 cm

© 2002 THE TEXTILE MUSEUM

Each month we will highlight a different textile from the Museum's collection.