Textile of the Month

Vest (jelek)
Albania
Late 19th to early 20th century


The jelek is a vest worn by both women and men in Albania and Yugoslavia. It is part of the traditional costume, which includes pieces such as shirts, trousers, a headdress and an apron. This vest is made from black velvet, lined with an orange and red striped silk, and covered in metallic-wrapped threads.

The metallic thread is made by winding long strips of thin metal around a silk thread. Because of the value and thickness of this thread, it is sewn onto the top of the vest only; the metallic-wrapped thread does not go through onto the reverse side. It is laid down in elaborate designs and then sewn to the ground fabric with small silk stitches that do penetrate the fabric. There are twenty-four buttons on this vest, which are covered in metallic-wrapped threads and decorated with small coral beads. These buttons do not serve as closures; they are a traditional part of the design and serve a decorative function.

Plain weave, satin weave, couching embroidery
16 inches long x 17 inches wide
The Textile Museum 1996.15.1
Gift of Mabel Hollingshead


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