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Kashmir Shawl, Mid-19th century, India
For centuries, Kashmir shawls were a popular item of man's court dress in India. Around the turn of the 19th century, they gained significance as a trade item and were quickly adopted by Europeans to compliment women's fashions. Shawls were manufactured in France, Britain, Germany, Belgium and Russia. Originally, European weavers copied Indian designs, however, over time each began to share patterns and exchange ideas. The boteh motif, also known as paisley, is characteristic of both Indian and European shawls; its evolution is well documented and assists in dating a shawl. Earlier shawls were patterned only on the edges, later shawls were completely covered with designs. These designs could be embroidered, printed or woven; the invention of the Jacquard loom in the early 1800s facilitated European production. The decline in popularity of these shawls occurred around 1870, coinciding with the Franco-Prussian war and a sudden change in European fashion. The Textile Museum 1982.40.1 The following is a selected bibliography for
further information on Kashmir Shawls: ______. The Kashmir Shawl and Its Indo-French Influences. Antique Collectors' Club, Woodbridge, Suffolk. 1986. Irwin, John. The Kashmir Shawl. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 1973. Mikosch, Elisabeth. "Catalogue of Kashmir Shawls
in The Textile Museum." The Textile Museum Journal, 1986,
pp.23-54. Reilly, Valerie. The Paisley Pattern: The Official
Illustrated History. Peregrine Smith Books, For a complete bibliography on Kashmir Shawls, please email info@textilemuseum.org
Each month we will highlight a different textile from the Museum's collection. |
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