Textile of the Month

Chief's-style blanket, third/fourth phase
Navajo
Arizona or New Mexico
circa 1870-1880


Navajo weavers have been famous for their well-made blankets for centuries. In the 19th century and earlier, Navajos and other Native Americans wore blankets as large mantles wrapped around the body. When worn in this way, the triangles on the sides of the blanket meet in front of the wearer to form a diamond, echoing the central diamond on the wearer's back. This diamond design is one of several known as "chief's-style," even though Navajo society does not have chiefs. The name probably originated when Europeans encountered Plains Indians, who do have chiefs, wearing Navajo blankets they had acquired through trade.

The red yarns in this blanket were recycled from red cloth given to Navajos by the U.S. government while the Navajo people were living in forced military camps. Navajo weavers unraveled the red cloth and rewove the yarns into their own kinds of textiles.

wool; tapestry weave with interlocked joins
163 cm x 141 cm
The Textile Museum 1976.30.4
Gift of Col. F. M. Johnson, Jr.

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