Textile of the Month

Skirt
Otomí
Mexico, Querétaro, Vizarrón de Montes
Early 20th century

The striking pattern of scrolling floral vines and diamond grids on this wool skirt were made by stitching and tying the motifs into the fabric before dyeing it. The white fabric was pulled into tight folds along the stitching lines, compressing it so that the dye would not penetrate into the depths of the folded and tied cloth. After dyeing the cloth to a deep, rich blue with indigo, the stitches and ties were removed, revealing the patterns in bright white against a blue background.

Tie- and stitch-resist dyeing with indigo have ancient roots in Central Mexico, in the area surrounding Mexico City. A thousand years ago, rulers and priests of the Toltec empire were depicted wearing capes and skirts with this type of patterning. Five hundred years later the ruling Aztecs wore similar garments, perhaps in part to evoke their Toltec predecessors and legitimize their own empire. The Otomí woman who made this skirt in the early 20th century was carrying on an ancient tradition for her own use in local festivals.

Learn more about the use of blue dye in textiles from around the world in the upcoming Textile Museum exhibition, BLUE. The exhibition opens April 4, 2008.

Wool; plain weave with stitched resist-dyed patterning
81 cm x 91 cm (warp direction horizontal)
The Textile Museum 1976.24.11
Given in memory of Rene d'Harnoncourt by his family

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© 2008 THE TEXTILE MUSEUM