Textile of the Month

Hat
Peru, probably south coast
Huari style, 700-900 AD





This distinctive style of four-cornered hat with pile is found on the south coast of Peru. The hats appear during the time that the southern coast was under the dominion of the Huari empire, which originated in the mountains of southern Peru. The Huari empire conquered most of the coast between 600 to 900 AD, and the culture continued for a while after the fall of the empire. In ceramics of the period, high-status men are depicted wearing this style of hat while engaged in activities suggesting some kind of ceremony.

Stylistically, these hats sometimes contain elements of both Huari and local coastal design. This hat's foundation is made by knotting yarns, while the checkerboard design with animal motifs on the sides of the hat is formed by separate, supplementary yarns caught in each knot to form the velvet-like pile. The yarns used to make this hat are of camelid hair. Camelids, such as llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas, live in the mountains, home of the Huari empire, while animal motifs, such as the cat-like creature on this hat, are characteristic of some local coastal textiles of the period.

larkshead knotted foundation with supplementary pile; embroidered plain weave top
camelid hair
14 cm x 14 cm x 11 cm
The Textile Museum 91.195
Acquired by George Hewitt Myers in 1936


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Each month we will highlight a different textile from the Museum's collection.