Kimono
Japan
1945-1972

Created in Japan during the Showa period (1926–1989), this robe features an asymmetrical composition of cranes with outstretched wings against a background of stylized flowers, waves, and landscape elements. This design is created using a resist dye technique called yuzen.  An important innovation of the Edo Period (1600–1850), the perfection of the process is attributed to 17th-century Kyoto painter Miyazaki Yuzen. Yuzen resist dyeing allows the artist to achieve realistic and very complex images on the fabric.  A paste mixture of rice is piped on to the fabric creating a “resist” for the dyes and inks.  The advantage is the ability to create lines of very fine or broad widths, as well as organic flowing lines found in nature (such as the crane forms above), with extreme precision.  Another advantage is the artist’s ability to manipulate the density of the paste, and thereby control the resistance to the dyes.  This allows the creation of subtle gradations in colors as well as the ability to soften or sharpen the lines.

Yuzen is often used in combination with other techniques such as tie- dying and embroidery.  In the above kimono, embroidery with gold metallic-wrapped thread outlines and highlights the cranes as well as the floral and water elements.

A garment such as this would be worn by a woman as a wedding kimono. The black background color of this robe, as well as use of the family crest or kamon, designate this as formal attire. This robe displays a total of five kamon, three on the back and one on each side in the front. Five is the number of kamon used on robes worn during the most formal of ceremonies.

Silk, metallic-wrapped thread
73” x 53”
The Textile Museum 1992.35.1
Gift of Edie Henderson

Sources:

The Japanese Kimono Hugo Munsterberg
The History of Japanese Art Penelope Mason

© 2008 THE TEXTILE MUSEUM