Textile of the Month

Toran
India, Gujarat
c. 20th century


 

Toran, made in Gujarat, on the coast of Northwestern India, are hung above doorways to welcome gods and people into the home. These pieces are often part of the dowry a girl would bring to her husband's home. The hanging pieces on the bottom are representative of mango leaves and are said to bring good luck. Toran are decorated with different types of embroidery stitches and mirrors. Embroidery done using mirrors, known as mirror work, originated in this area of India and has since spread across the country. Mirror work can be seen on wall hangings, animal trappings, quilts and clothing among other items.

The mirrors shown in the detail are attached with a form of embroidery called the "shisha stitch". Since the mirrors are without holes, stitches around them bind them to the fabric. This is done with layered stitches holding the mirror in place. The tightness of the stitch varies the amount of mirror that is exposed. The other six stitches used for this embroidery are the chain stitch, cretan stitch, herringbone stitch, buttonhole stitch, interlacing stitch and the running stitch.


"Shisha stitch", chain stitch, cretan stitch, herringbone stitch, buttonhole stitch, running stitch, interlacing stitch, embroidery
Cotton, tassels, beads, cowrie shells, buttons, silk, mirrors
71.12 cm x 53.34 cm
The Textile Museum 1989.15.4
Ruth Lincoln Fisher Memorial Fund

 

 

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